This post will show A LOT of photos of me blocking the back of the Geiger Cardigan to the pattern dimensions. The process of blocking all the pieces is pretty much the same. Follow-on blog posts will show photo collages of blocking the fronts and the sleeves.

These are various pieces of my Geiger Cardigan soaking in cold water and Eucalan in the sink. Cover with water and let soak at least 1/2 an hour. I’ve been known to leave overnight with no ill effects.

Carefully lift your pieces out of the water using BOTH hands (my other hand was holding the camera). Gently squish out as much excess water as you can without wringing or aggressively treating your work.

Arrange the pieces on a fluffy, absorbent bath towel and roll it up.

Step on the towel all over to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. It’s a good idea to do this once more. Get a fresh towel, rearrange the pieces, roll up and step again.

I usually block directly on to the carpet in my knitting room. If you have blocking boards or a mattress or another convenient place you like to work, use that. Bring your pieces to your blocking location. Have stainless steel (not nickle-plated) pi… — I usually block directly on to the carpet in my knitting room. If you have blocking boards or a mattress or another convenient place you like to work, use that. Bring your pieces to your blocking location. Have stainless steel (not nickle-plated) pins on hand as well as one or two straight-edge rulers. You’ll need your pattern page with the sweater dimensions open and your size highlighted.

This is the back of the Geiger sweater. I choose a part of the sweater that’s a straight line and begin there. In this case, I start with the bottom of the sweater. I line it up to a straight line on my carpet (how convenient) as well as against my … — This is the back of the Geiger sweater. I choose a part of the sweater that’s a straight line and begin there. In this case, I start with the bottom of the sweater. I line it up to a straight line on my carpet (how convenient) as well as against my straight edge. I coax the width of the sweater to the correct dimensions. I pin the exact middle of the spine to half the bottom dimension and then evenly pin the sweater across this edge.
A word of note: I’m using the yarn the pattern called for, Brooklyn Tweed Arbor. It’s a fantastic yarn, but be warned that it stretches A LOT when wet. Coaxing into dimensions when blocking is very important.

This is how the bottom looks completely pinned. I spaced my pins about an inch apart.

Next I worked on the side edge. It’s not a straight line, so I started by measuring out the total dimension and placing a pin at the top and bottom edge at the proper length. I then did the same on the other edge.

Since I know that the bottom ribbing is a straight section, I next pinned the sides of the ribbing. I made sure that the bottom of the sweater and the parallel top of the ribbing were the same width.

The other straight line on the Geiger back is the center spine. I lined up my straight edge along the spine and pinned about every inch. I already determined where the middle of the sweater was when I pinned the bottom. So, I just measure perpendicu… — The other straight line on the Geiger back is the center spine. I lined up my straight edge along the spine and pinned about every inch. I already determined where the middle of the sweater was when I pinned the bottom. So, I just measure perpendicularly up the spine and keep a straight line for the dimension noted in the pattern, coaxing where necessary.

This is the center spine pinned to dimensions.

This is a good time to start coaxing your cables into looking pretty. As you’re pinning the rest of the sweater keep looking for opportunities to arrange the cables in a pleasing manner. Give them straight lines where needed and flesh out the curves.

The rest of the blocking is a process of measuring and pinning to get the everything to match up. The back is symmetric, so anything you do on one half, you need to duplicate on the other. The next couple of pictures show a collage of the process of completing blocking the back.

This collage shows the process of pinning out the sides. I measured from the spine to the outer edge in various places and ensured that both edges matched. Since the spine is a straight line, it’s a good point of reference for measuring.

These photos show blocking the arm hole and the top of the back.

This last photo shows the back completely blocked.

After your pieces are completely blocked, allow them to dry COMPLETELY. I usually allow mine to dry at least 48 hours. I have a ceiling fan in my knitting room that can speed the process along a bit, but I still think 48 hours is safe. You want your pieces completely dry before un-pinning.

I hope this visual tour of the process was helpful to you. Please ask any questions in the comments! And look for more pictures of the other pieces blocking in the near future!